THE FASHION ACTIVIST 1970

PEACE

Hotel Costes - Galaxy - Hippie House

What's Funky?

It's a look of exaggerations. It's fun but it displays the mind as well as the body. And it can be a put-on of Fifties clothes fashioned into a parody of their original style. Above; the high-waisted pants topeed off by the layered look. Custom-made pants by L'Uomo, New York. Sweater by Gordonn Gregory. The chicken-print shirt by Ruffin and Hecht.

The Funky Activist

The funky way of strolling down the street involves an orange shirt with a palm tree applique and blue satin pants by Flo Toronto. The New Balance shoes are purple, red and black. The snakeskin scull cap is by Santos Santiago. Europa Sportswear sheepskin coat.

The Hip Activist

Traditional fashion values mean little to the Hip Activist. Not only is he completely open to new ideas, but he's less interested in function than a Look. Dress is anything but a sometime thing with him, as clearly evidenced by his uninhibited fashion outlook. Wherever he goes, his look goes with him. This put-together, a supple suede casual outfit by Robert Lewis. The shirt, side-vented and chest-and-back-yoked. The flared-bottom pants tucked into mid-calf boots and completed with a shoulder-strapped carry-all bag.

The Fashion Activist

Directness indicative of the Fashion Activist's revolutionary approach to dress. Suede vest with leather patch pockets by Stitching Horse, New York, over a Sebring mini-patterned cotton knit shirt, and bleached-look jeans by Landlubber. The all-important accessories; a wire neck ring, brass-studded cowhide Bechelli belt and Renegade high boots, complete the look.

Just a Great Jacket 
Then - Or Now

Boldly plaided wool sport coat by Tarra. The pants are double-knit and pleated. By Knit Britches.

Two kinds of suits are wardrobe candidates these days, one along more familiar lines, and one a freer,  more casual version.  The Contemporary Activist's decision of which to wear depends not on the occasion or place - or blind adherence to antiquated dress rules - but on his own whim. He might want European-inspired elegance like this vested suit by Dmitri of Italy, worn with a geometric weave shirt by Giovannelli plus a wide tie by Oleg Cassini.

The Campus Counter-Culture

Tank top worn atop a long-sleeve polo. Both by Limbo, with blue jeans, of course.

true grit, campus-style

DD. Dominick, N.Y. sweater. Leather vest, Stitching Horse, N.Y.

The Contemporary Fashion Activist

Wears a mid-length, belted, leather jacket with a big, curly lamb collar to appeal to his sense of fun without being outlandish. The speckled-look flared pants are by UFO.

Rugged practicality prevails in the Contemporary Activist's outerwear choices.  A pigskin trenchcoat in the longest length his fashion direction allows. By Chrome Cuir-Paris for Rafael. Worn with a Rafael broad-brimmed hat and high Renegade boots.

The Maxi-coat

Vital to the Activist's wardrobe. This belted, simulated leather maxi, by Faret-France for Rafael, has a hefty fake curly lamb collar and a high centre vent. Underneath, wide cuffed pants by UFO.

Hip

A jungle suede coat lined in sheepskin and closed with toggle buckles by Chrome Cuir-Paris for Rafael. Non-wale corduroy bell-bottoms by UFO bring this uninhibited dresser's outfit to a point just this side of funky.

The Contemporary Activist

The Contemporary Activist equates knits with casual endeavours. Their versatility, they've taken on looks that are far afield from the bulky sweater of yesterday - and their easy character - from both a comfort and visual standpoint - prompt the key role they play in his fashion life-style.

getting your head together

by the staff at Paul McGregor's Hair House on St. Mark's Place in the East Village. McGregor's opened two years ago and now includes a school of groovy haircutting.

More Hip

The casual suit worm by the Hip Activist seldom, if ever, follow familiar lines. Part of his fun depends on how he looks - and when he looks up-to-the-second his fun increases accordingly. This diamond argyle plaid outfit, with a zippered front and four buttoned-flap patch-pockets is by Sabre.

When the Hip Activist actually does "dress-up," his outfit generally takes an about-face away from the common-place to something like this vest-suit by Fox Ron.

This Gino Paoli one-piece wool jumpsuit, lightweight and snug- fitting, is belted at the waist and zipped with an industrial zipper riding all the way up to form a turtleneck.

The Hip Activist's view of fashion includes the acceptability of casual wear for more occasions than not. The restriction of a coat and tie , no matter how slight or psychological, is something he tends to disavow - especially when he has other things on his mind. Here, the total freedom of a cotton dimensional-weave sweater by Madonna, worn wIth a complementary striped pant by UFO.

The Contemporary Activist

Putting together compatible items with the aim of creating a "suit" is right in line with the Contemporary Activist's thinking. Above;

the total sweater look,  achieved with a geometric design, mid-length knit top and wrinkle-shredding knit pants with a button-through fly , both by Forum.

Very Contemporary

This wool-blend casual suit by Sebring, is for the increasingly frequent times the Contemporary Activist lets his inhibitions off the leash for a while. It's encircled by a double-buckle belt by Lord Buxton.

The Fashion  Activist who opts for the Contemporary route is tradition oriented, but more than open to current looks - as long as they're sensible, functional, comfortable and can reflect his receptive attitude (to all things) without shouting it. He puts together outfits, not costumes - decorative, but never overdone. Like this jaquard wire-weave suit by Darren Fashions. Worn with a sleeveless pullover by Prince Igor and open-neck shirt in a chain- link design by Giovanelli.

Karl Mann's the man
alone in my playhouse with my toys

Advertising

Julian Bond has cut off his afro

... but he hasn't stopped fighting

The Fashion Activist

The Campus Counter-Culture

Gentlemen's Quarterly September 1970

Photography: 

Peter Levy
Leonard Nones

Mark Patiky

... eyes on the seventies at devodotcom