Showing posts with label Nicky Haslam. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nicky Haslam. Show all posts

Saturday, October 27, 2012

SHOE ON THIS


ROAMIN' SANDAL
Charles Jourdan

The emerald green snakeskin roman sandal to be worn with day as well as evening clothes. Proof that 'everything old is new again.'


FITS LIKE A GLOVE
Rayne

Slick white patent boot with silver heel, fitting like as second skin. The Look: the long boot with the light summer dress.



GO FISH
Charles Jourdan

Tinsel-heeled acid yellow snakeskin sandal. Diagonally fastened with a big silver saucer button.


A BIRD IN THE HAND
Kurt Geiger

Black patent gold-heeled sandal. T-strap fastened with a square patent buckle.


The Magical Transformation of the Shoe
Queen
March 1970
Photography: Lester Bookbinder

Nicky Haslam's Beatle boot at devodotcom

Monday, August 1, 2011

RICHARD AVEDON'S HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965

Sefjan Stevens Chicago

Night on the Town


Shrimpton in ruched ruffles like ribbon candy by Abe Schrader

"Dick decided to follow up the New York section with a portfolio of '"Swinging"' London. We took a suite at the Ritz; in those days the boiseried bedrooms were the size of ballrooms, and the marble bathrooms not much smaller. We had hired a studio at the newly built Sunday Times headquarters in Gray's Inn Road, and a parade of Mods, some knocking on aristicratic doors, others aristocrats playing, delightfully, at being Mod, poured out of the elevator and into the clothes of young designers like Foale & Tuffin or Caroline Charles: Chrissie Shrimpton; Jane and Julian Ormsby Gore, singers Bobby Jameson and Cilla Black, just beginning her rocket to fame; my cousins Peregrine and Jacquetta Eliot; and Lily Langtry's great-granddaughter Lucy Bartlett. After a day of sittings we would dine at the first trattoria to open in England, the Toscana in Soho, before dashing off to Brian Morris's Ad Lib Club, high above an alley in Leicester Square to frug the night away with the same crowd, joined by the Beatles, or Rudi Nureyev with Tessa Kennedy."


Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features




LIVE AND AD LIB: LONDON
LUCY BARTLETT


Great-granddaughter of Lily Langtry, is one of the suddenly, startlingly candid new young English beauties who right now make the London scene the what's happening center of the Western world.Closest thing we know in the world of make-up to her cool, clear, country-girl appeal goes by the name of the London Look: emanates from the legendary English house of Yardley.






Creators of the Scene
The Honorable Jane and The Honorable Juilian Ormsby Gore




Stridently a part of the scene, the remarkable children of Lord Harlech, former English ambassador to the United States, and Lady Harlech. Her dress by Avantgarde, his, a vintage suit made for his father when he was twenty-one and worn once.




The Honorable Jane Ormsby Gore wears a double breasted jacket with  bell-bottomed hipbone pants by Bibas. Julian Ormsby Gore in vintage




The Enchanted Face
Jacquetta, Lady Eliot, toffee striped hair, fresh and unhindered. Bit of lace peeping up at her throat.



Jacquetta links hands with her equally young husband, PeregrineLord Eliot, the master of a home in London and of Port Eliot in Cornwall, a romantic house washed by the sound of the sea. Lady Eliot wears a Tuffin and Foale white crepe dress, whose geometric lines copy New York's Chrysler Building.







YOUNG LONDONERS
Richard Avedon's observations on the "mod" mode as seen every day on London streets






YOUNG LONDONERS


The "in" pair: Chrissie Shrimpton in Tony Armstrong and Doug Gibbons, a singer with the Footprints.






YOUNG LONDONERS
Chrissie Shrimpton (Jean's sister)in Jane and Jane with Scottish Folk singer, Roddy Cameron in tartan trousers.




YOUNG LONDONERS
The cool elegance of vanilla trousers and an eggplant top from Gerald McCann. London Model Rocky Sands "shakes" for singer Bobby Jameson.

Charles Jourdan Shoes
The simple but rakish coiffures by Robert Fielding of Regent Street.








Harper's Bazaar April 1965
What's happening - what's really out of this world - in the wonderful world of make-up: a new rave of a lipstick with the exciting astral glow of silver built in. The nouveau space helmut in heavenly pink from Mr. John. Vari-Vue winking eye manufactured by Pictorial Productions, Inc., created for Harper's Bazaar by Kay Anderson.

Cover and all photographs by Richard Avedon




photographed by Hien Nguyen at the Avedon Reptrospective, Boston Museum of Fine Arts

"Having seen a pair of winking-eye spectacles in a Broadway joke shop, I had he idea of using a hologram - not that they were yet called that - of Jean Shrimpton's eye that would wink as you moved, on the cover portrait. Dick was wildly enthusiastic, photographing Jean's sky blue eyes shut and open for hours, but the process turned out to be quite expensive and in the end only first-run copies carried "the Shrimp" winking out from inside a '"heavenly pink space helmut by Mr. John"'.





Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features


THE EDITOR'S GUESTBOOK





From left downward: Lane Dunlop and Ree Dragonette; Alfred Duhrssen and Marvin Cohen; Tom Wolfe; Renata Adler and George Moorse; George Segal; Dr. Gerald Oster; Bob Bishop; Stan Vanderbeek; Roy Lichtenstein; Richard Avedon. 




Last, but most in, one of the ubiquitous boots of Nicky Haslam, our consultant on what's happening, like now.

Wednesday, July 27, 2011

HAPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965 THE MOST MODERN ISSUE EVER PUBLISHED



SUFJAN STEVENS - CHICAGO

Jean Shrimpton





"Dick Avedon, at the time the most influential photographer on earth, suggested I work as his editorial assistant on the April 1965 issue of Harper's Bazaar. He had been asked to guest edit the magazine, the first time this idea had been put forward. He had agreed, provided there would be absolutely no control or direction from Nancy White - the editor of Bazaar since Diana Vreeland's departure to Vogue."
Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features



The Man of the Moment
Paul McCartney
Cosmic, yes, yes, yes, sends the faithful into orbit with the Mersey beat and Mersey sound of the music he writes for fellow-Beatles, John, George and Ringo.

Harper's Bazaar April 1965

The Mercury Blonde

We were given carte blanche to do what we wanted, and Dick said it unquestionably had to be the most modern issue of a fashion magazine ever published.



Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features


op and pop fashion

Venet's point d'esprit brides coiffure

Donyale Luna in Galanos

"In a bar in Chicago, Dick discovered the exquisite, long-limbed Donyale Luna, who would become the first instance ever of a black model being used in a "white" magazine. We photographed her wearing the collection of the American couturier James Galanos. The chief cutter at Galanos, herself a black woman, told James - and us - that she would quit if Donyale appeared in the magazine wearing clothes she had made. Furious, Dick had to capitulate, cropping the pictures so that no telling features above Donyale's long slender neck were visible. On publication, hundreds of readers in the South wrote to Nancy White cancelling their subscriptions."





Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features









Norell of New York


"Faced with the first black model, a James Galanos studio employee, herself a black woman, announced that she would leave if Donyale Luna appeared in the magazine wearing Galanos's clothes. As the story was later told, advertisers with southern accounts pulled there ads from the issue; still later, subscribers were said to have canceled their subscriptions, while William Randolph Hearst, Jr., whose family company owned Harper's Bazaar, relayed his displeasure to the editors."

David Michaelis
Vanity Fair December 2009

There appears to be a case of time altering facts upon the recollections above. The issue demonstrates that it is the American couturier Norman Norell's designs that have the infamous cropped heads and the 'Luna in Galanos' display Donyale Luna in full beautiful stature.


Luna in Galanos





Luna in Galanos
Harper's Bazaar April 1965


Night Birds
China Machado in Galitzine

"The exquisite Eurasian model China Machado, "a capuchin monkey in the lap of Genghis Kahn," as Diana Vreeland described her."

Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features


Frug That Fat Away
The Death of the Diet
Verushka and Donyale Luna in Rudi Gernreich




Jasper Johns



I persuaded the leading pop artists Roy Lichtenstein, George Segal, and Claes Oldenburg to make huge backdrops and sets for Marella Agnelli, Naty Abascal, and Dolores Furstenberg, the great beauties of the day, to be photographed against, wearing "Space age" clothes by the young Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne.




Nicholas Haslam
Redeeming Features



Signora Gianni Agnelli
Agostini Sculpture

Marella Agnelli-The way it's going to be. Ineffable elegance, an aristocracy of being that transcends the illusory in fashion, simply, unselfconsciously exists. In wildly flowered tights, shining vinyl jacket and boots, Signora Agnelli leans on an Agostini sculpture, establishing, by example, the direction of fashion to come.





George Segal
"Women Washing Her Feet"

"The sittings with Shrimpton began on January 2,1965. That morning, in a Trenton, New Jersey, chicken coop, Avedon had shot Pop artist George Segal's white plaster sculpture Woman Washing Her Feet, knowing at this point only that the practitioners of this movement - Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Stan VanDerBeck, physicist George Oster - might be the issue's '"most interesting contributors,"' alongside commentary by Renata Adler and Tom Wolfe, poems by Lane Dunlop and Ree Dragonette, excerpts from novel s in progress by Alfred Duhrssen and Marvin Cohen, and his own portraits of a laughing Jasper Johns, a clean-cut Rauschenberg. Ruth Ansel, puzzling over the place for shoes to appear - the shoe page was a Bazaar institution - had sent off for a pair of heeled chrome-yellow sandals, which she tossed under the white porcelain face bowl: a touch of Andy Warhol color in Segal's foreboding scene."  


David Michaelis
Vanity Fair December 2009



"I arrived early, along with Dick Avedon and China Machado, an editor of the magazine. A few other people were there also, including Tony Jones. The equipment got set up, Dick did the fashion shots, and then Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr arrived. Everything went smoothly and the guys were fun to work with.
After the photo session was over, only Ringo Starr, Avedon, China and myself remained in the studio. Then Ringo decided to challenge Avedon to a drinking contest.
Now, Dick was not much of a drinker, but he was game, and so they started downing vast amounts of whisky. This could only end in disaster. Or two passed out bodies, which it did. I took a few pictures of the results, which resurfaced recently and which I played with in PopArt Plus to give it a real Sixties feel. Yes, I know — this style is way past its use-by date.
A short time later, as I was packing up, both Ringo and Avedon were laying on the floor — one in the 
bathroom and the other in the kitchen — oblivious to the world. What to do? To make matters worse, a group of Beatles fans were at the street entrance, waiting for Ringo. China made some calls, and arranged to have a private car go to the service entrance on Gough Street, out of sight of the fans. To get Ringo there, I had to carry him across the rooftop, and take him down the goods lift (freight elevator), depositing him in the waiting car."

From Earl Steinbicker's Life's Little Adventures - The Avedon Years, Part XII



Bob Dylan

The teenagers' troubadour came out of the West to wander restlessly through the country, playing and singing his own folk tunes, like "Blowin' in the wind." More of a words man than a musician, he sets his verbal flashes of insight to simple melodies that hush his audience. Now, five years later, his restless wanderings include brief but profitable stops at Columbia's recording studio which is releasing his latest L.P., Bringing It All Back Home.



 The Contemporary Art of Temporary Life
Dali's Discovery Adil
The awakening young faun is also the model for his latest painting, Hermes, which combines pop and op art techniques with a new three-dimensional process, on view this month at the Spanish Pavilion of the New York World's Fair. One name is an anagram of the other; so in a surrealist sense, Adil is Dali....The cool sea nymph appears in an imported maillot of rib-knitted cotton, unlined and white as whitest foam, By Lydia of Roma.

to be continued...