Showing posts with label Madame Gres. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Madame Gres. Show all posts

Friday, October 24, 2014

THE MAGICAL PHOTOGRAPHY OF DIANE ARBUS - MADAME GRES



"In 1932, Madame Gres, who was then known as Alix, came to the attention of the fashionable world. She has never since lost that attention. Thirty-two years later, she continues at the top of French couture, a unique talent - her timeless, draped silk jersey dresses, prized possessions of their owners. One of the few true dressmakers left (charming witness of her profession, the worn little pincushion that swings from her waist as she works), she cuts material directly without pattern or drawing, using in one dress from twenty to seventy yards of fabric. Paradoxically, Madame Gres is a woman famed, but little known. Shy, tiny, with the elegant bones of a mandarin, she is both a designer and a sculptor. Her hands hold a length of cloth or sculptor's tools with the same touch that '"knows,"' that feels, without grasping, the essence of what is held. Everything about her speaks an awareness of what lies beneath, the irreducible, the bones of life, excess and detail pared away - her Paris apartment, strong-to-stark, filled but not cluttered with marvelous antique Chinese rugs and Gothic statuary; her taste for the muted blessings of gray and beige, and, of course, her designs, miracles of draping that could have graced a Venus in ancient Greece. Her own manner of dressing is always simple - a sweater and skirt for work, a gray squirrel pullover for a city stroll; for evening, the perfection of a white silk velvet tunic dress swathed in a toss of white fox and, night or day, the tight-drawn turban. The gift so apparent in all she designs is and only could be the result of a disciplined, unsparing effort toward perfection which she, as nearly as it is possible, achieves."
Diane Arbus




Madame Gres wears her camel coloured coat with mandarin collar and an asymmetrical closing



madame gres:
a unique talent
Harper's Bazaar February 1964
Photography: Diane Arbus


...eyes on Arbus at devodotcom


FROM THE ARCHIVE
devodotcom posts on Diane Arbus

8/23/14 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
12/29/13 Happy New Year From Our house To Your House!
4/29/13 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
4/12/13 Harper’s Bazaar Year 101
4/19/12 The Magical Photography of Diane Arbus
3/22/12 The Simplicity of Thought
3/21/12 Have A Great Day!
1/25/12 The Vertical Journey
12/31/11 Happy New Year
11/24/11 The Young Heiresses
8/14/11 Bill Blass Designs For Little Ones
7/12/11 The Full Circle:Prince Robert de Rohan Courtenay
5/17/11 As You Desire Me
4/25/11 The Full Circle: Max Maxwell Landar
2/14/11 The Couple
1/30/11 She's As Mae West As Ever: Mae West
10/16/10 The Full Circle: William Mack
9/25/10 Mrs. T. Charlton Henry
9/05/10 Fashion Independents On Marriage
8/20/10 The Real Miss Cora Pratt
8/20/10 Miss Cora Pratt
7/29/10 The Full Circle: Jack Dracula
7/27/10 Thank Heaven For Little Girls
7/26/10 Petal Pink For Little Parties

5/24/10 Tokyo Rose

Wednesday, January 8, 2014

PONDERING A NEW YEAR OF FASHION


Horsehair beehive by Madame Gres
Marc Koven rings



"Time to change your thinking about eye make-up

To model your eyes on the Siamese cat's: long and tip-tilted.

To stroke on brighter, more intensely hued shadow and to use it lavishly from the center of the lid out to the brow, with a feline darkening at the outer corners. (And possibly to fill in the rest of the eyelid with dead white or silver.)

To change to jewel-coloured mascaras: emerald greens, deep blues and amethyst purples.

To make sweeping, clearly defined wings - like Japanese calligraphy - of your brows.

...and if you haven't changed your hairdo, the new hat will make it practically mandatory. Hair should be short and ruffly, with a few strands escaping over the brow as if by chance."

What's Under The Hat?
Harper's Bazaar May 1958
Photography: Richard Avedon

... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom



Thursday, March 8, 2012

STREISAND - PARIS COLLECTIONS 1966



Ricci

Gres yellow and ivory jersey poncho - tussah pants

Dior printed chiffon pyjamas

Barbra...wrapped by Gres
"Comme elle est belle," said Gres of Streisand, and wrapped her up tenderly in this delicious little coif - simply a clean white triangle of Moreau linen with a slit for the head and twelve-inch  side pieces  to tie this way and that.

Elle s'appelle Barbra


Gres Moreau linen poncho - Gres Ear-sweeps
Roger Vivier gold escarpins



Vogue March 15, 1966
Paris Collections...with Barbra
Photography: Avedon
Coiffures: Alixandre of Paris