HARPERS BAZAAR APRIL 1965 - THE MOST MODERN ISSUE EVER PART II

Sefjan Stevens - Chicago

Pop Art Fantasy
Roy Lichtenstein

WHEN SHE entered young professor Lovelock's life, everything changed for him. "I want to kiss you!" the love-sick scientist kept thinking all day log, letting his kenetic-molecular hypothesis go hang. No Wonder! She contoured her mouth - alluringly, lusciously - with one of the new wild colors: Mauve, Red, Orange or Cocoa, applying a coat of clear yellow or white opal for highlight only to the lower lip! Naturally, the doomed young scientist gave up his search for the ultimate particle and became the slave forever of wild, wild, Dorothy Gray!! 

The New Botticelli Girl
Bibi Winkelhorn

Rhodora! if the sages ask thee why

This charm is wasted on the earth and

                                  sky,

Tell them, dear, that if eyes were 

                      made for seeing.

Then Beauty is its own excuse for

                                being.

- Emerson

Bibi Winkelhorn

What's Coming
Lew Alcindor

A young giant of a boy, Lew Alcindor, called by his equally young fans, who patiently follow him everywhere, "El Cid" is what's about to happen in basketball.

Hi-Fi Femininity
Sara Lownds

Once more the frankly feminine returns to fashion. Lovely, luscious Sarah Lownds wears low-cut, deeply V'ed, black and white checks - the skirt, a panorama of pleats. The flirty knickers, kissed at the knee with a white camelia. Dress by Teal Traina.

"Dick's portraits of impossibly thin kids like Bob Dylan and the six-foot-seven basketball sensation Lew Alcindor were separated from the ravishingly plump Bibi Winkelhorn and Bob Dylan's wife Sara with a story by Tom Wolfe."

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

Op Scene

Jean Shrimpton
Young Elegante designed by Julian Tomchin

Op and Pop Fashion
Townley design

Simone in Courrege's space glasses

Simone in Courrege

Stan Vanderbeck

Original montage using photographs of foremost film makers, (including himself) of underground movies (the name he coined for the controversial new American film trend).

The Galactic Girl On The Moon

Madly Wonderful for boating on any planet you can name (and some that re about to be), a sleek black waterproof sailing suit with a dual personality parka. It turns turtleneck when you fasten the snaps. By Ernest Engel.

The Galactic Girl makes the sun scene in suits that are simply Sam. Navy blue knit after-swim suit zips all the way down the back, beautifully moulding the bird. By Bess Art.

Look-of-the-future knicker jumpsuit, celestially white as the Milky Way, zips up front, stretching to hug the bug. By Loomtogs. Shades, to keep the sun out of your great big beautiful eyes by Riviera. Capezio Moonsilver tights. Space clogs by Bernardo.

The Galactic Girl On The Moon
Jean Shrimpton

The Galactic Girl sails away in a ring-a-ding little sailing jacket of cloud-white nylon.Quilted on the vertical, zippered down the front. By White Stag. Epic white globe-of-the-world earrings by Arpad.

"To photograph "the Earth Girl" reclining on a conquered moon, on January 11, Avedon needed a location that would look like the lunar seas, and he found it at the DIMAR Construction Company's quarries, a vast site piled with mountains of white gravel on Route 84 in Fort Lauderdale."

David Michaelis

Vanity Fair December 2009

Testing

The pull of gravity, lunar legs clad in shimmering silver, bound securely by the thongs of a new excercise sandal in softest black glove leather by Herbert Levine.

The Lunar Glow

Naty Abascal

To be continued...

HAPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965 THE MOST MODERN ISSUE EVER PUBLISHED

SUFJAN STEVENS - CHICAGO

Jean Shrimpton

"Dick Avedon, at the time the most influential photographer on earth, suggested I work as his editorial assistant on the April 1965 issue of Harper's Bazaar. He had been asked to guest edit the magazine, the first time this idea had been put forward. He had agreed, provided there would be absolutely no control or direction from Nancy White - the editor of Bazaar since Diana Vreeland's departure to Vogue."

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

The Man of the Moment

Paul McCartney

Cosmic, yes, yes, yes, sends the faithful into orbit with the Mersey beat and Mersey sound of the music he writes for fellow-Beatles, John, George and Ringo.

Harper's Bazaar April 1965

The Mercury Blonde

We were given carte blanche to do what we wanted, and Dick said it unquestionably had to be the most modern issue of a fashion magazine ever published.

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

op and pop fashion

Venet's point d'esprit brides coiffure

Donyale Luna in Galanos

"In a bar in Chicago, Dick discovered the exquisite, long-limbed Donyale Luna, who would become the first instance ever of a black model being used in a "white" magazine. We photographed her wearing the collection of the American couturier James Galanos. The chief cutter at Galanos, herself a black woman, told James - and us - that she would quit if Donyale appeared in the magazine wearing clothes she had made. Furious, Dick had to capitulate, cropping the pictures so that no telling features above Donyale's long slender neck were visible. On publication, hundreds of readers in the South wrote to Nancy White cancelling their subscriptions."

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

Norell of New York

"Faced with the first black model, a James Galanos studio employee, herself a black woman, announced that she would leave if Donyale Luna appeared in the magazine wearing Galanos's clothes. As the story was later told, advertisers with southern accounts pulled there ads from the issue; still later, subscribers were said to have canceled their subscriptions, while William Randolph Hearst, Jr., whose family company owned Harper's Bazaar, relayed his displeasure to the editors."

David Michaelis

Vanity Fair December 2009

There appears to be a case of time altering facts upon the recollections above. The issue demonstrates that it is the American couturier Norman Norell's designs that have the infamous cropped heads and the 'Luna in Galanos' display Donyale Luna in full beautiful stature.

Luna in Galanos

Luna in Galanos
Harper's Bazaar April 1965

Night Birds

China Machado in Galitzine

"The exquisite Eurasian model China Machado, "a capuchin monkey in the lap of Genghis Kahn," as Diana Vreeland described her."

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

Frug That Fat Away

The Death of the Diet

Verushka and Donyale Luna in Rudi Gernreich

Jasper Johns

I persuaded the leading pop artists Roy Lichtenstein, George Segal, and Claes Oldenburg to make huge backdrops and sets for Marella Agnelli, Naty Abascal, and Dolores Furstenberg, the great beauties of the day, to be photographed against, wearing "Space age" clothes by the young Pierre Cardin and Paco Rabanne.

Nicholas Haslam

Redeeming Features

Signora Gianni Agnelli

Agostini Sculpture

Marella Agnelli-The way it's going to be. Ineffable elegance, an aristocracy of being that transcends the illusory in fashion, simply, unselfconsciously exists. In wildly flowered tights, shining vinyl jacket and boots, Signora Agnelli leans on an Agostini sculpture, establishing, by example, the direction of fashion to come.

George Segal

"Women Washing Her Feet"

"The sittings with Shrimpton began on January 2,1965. That morning, in a Trenton, New Jersey, chicken coop, Avedon had shot Pop artist George Segal's white plaster sculpture Woman Washing Her Feet, knowing at this point only that the practitioners of this movement - Lichtenstein, Claes Oldenburg, Stan VanDerBeck, physicist George Oster - might be the issue's '"most interesting contributors,"' alongside commentary by Renata Adler and Tom Wolfe, poems by Lane Dunlop and Ree Dragonette, excerpts from novel s in progress by Alfred Duhrssen and Marvin Cohen, and his own portraits of a laughing Jasper Johns, a clean-cut Rauschenberg. Ruth Ansel, puzzling over the place for shoes to appear - the shoe page was a Bazaar institution - had sent off for a pair of heeled chrome-yellow sandals, which she tossed under the white porcelain face bowl: a touch of Andy Warhol color in Segal's foreboding scene."  

David Michaelis

Vanity Fair December 2009

"I arrived early, along with Dick Avedon and China Machado, an editor of the magazine. A few other people were there also, including Tony Jones. The equipment got set up, Dick did the fashion shots, and then Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr arrived. Everything went smoothly and the guys were fun to work with.

After the photo session was over, only Ringo Starr, Avedon, China and myself remained in the studio. Then Ringo decided to challenge Avedon to a drinking contest.

Now, Dick was not much of a drinker, but he was game, and so they started downing vast amounts of whisky. This could only end in disaster. Or two passed out bodies, which it did. I took a few pictures of the results, which resurfaced recently and which I played with in PopArt Plus to give it a real Sixties feel. Yes, I know — this style is way past its use-by date.

A short time later, as I was packing up, both Ringo and Avedon were laying on the floor — one in the 

bathroom and the other in the kitchen — oblivious to the world. What to do? To make matters worse, a group of Beatles fans were at the street entrance, waiting for Ringo. China made some calls, and arranged to have a private car go to the service entrance on Gough Street, out of sight of the fans. To get Ringo there, I had to carry him across the rooftop, and take him down the goods lift (freight elevator), depositing him in the waiting car."

From Earl Steinbicker's Life's Little Adventures - The Avedon Years, Part XII

Bob Dylan

The teenagers' troubadour came out of the West to wander restlessly through the country, playing and singing his own folk tunes, like "Blowin' in the wind." More of a words man than a musician, he sets his verbal flashes of insight to simple melodies that hush his audience. Now, five years later, his restless wanderings include brief but profitable stops at Columbia's recording studio which is releasing his latest L.P., Bringing It All Back Home.

 The Contemporary Art of Temporary Life

Dali's Discovery Adil

The awakening young faun is also the model for his latest painting, Hermes, which combines pop and op art techniques with a new three-dimensional process, on view this month at the Spanish Pavilion of the New York World's Fair. One name is an anagram of the other; so in a surrealist sense, Adil is Dali....The cool sea nymph appears in an imported maillot of rib-knitted cotton, unlined and white as whitest foam, By Lydia of Roma.

to be continued...