Saturday, May 14, 2011

DONYALE LUNA - JEFF BUCKLEY


EVERYBODY HERE WANT'S YOU



DONYALE LUNA IN GALANOS
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON

Donyale Luna was born Peggy Anne Freeman in Detroit, Michigan. Although records show otherwise, Luna insisted that her biological father had the surname Luna, not Freeman. Regardless of the truth about the surname, she appeared to have been born under a lucky star. 
Said Luna, "I started at the top." 




 DONYALE LUNA IN GALANOS
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON


Starting with playing small roles in a Detroit repertory theater, she was spotted leaving a TV rehearsal by photographer David McCabe who arranged an appointment for her in New York with Harper's Bazaar. 




DONYALE LUNA IN GALANOS
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON

The editors were so impressed when she walked into the office that they put a sketch of her on the January 1965 cover - essentially becoming the first black cover model. She was soon signed to work exclusively with photographer Richard Avedon. 



DONYALE LUNA
HARPER'S BAZAAR JANUARY 1965 
KATERINA DENZINGER

DONYALE LUNA WEARS GALANOS
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON

She was an instant hit with the New York Art Scene, was embraced by Andy Warhol, and became a member of Warhol’s film entourage.  Luna appeared in several of his experimental films including 1965’s Camp, Screen Tests and a reel titled Donyale Luna, a version of ‘Snow White.’ Salvador Dali considered her one of his favorite subjects.


DONYALE LUNA IN BILL BLASS FOR MAURICE RETNER
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON

By the end of the year she had moved on to Europe where she became the first African American model to appear on the cover of Vogue.  A month later in a Time magazine feature, “The Luna Year”, Luna was hailed as “unquestionably the hottest model in Europe at the moment.” Reporting that Luna was “A new heavenly body who, because of her striking singularity, promises to remain on high for many a season.” Beatrix Miller, then editor of British Vogue was quoted in the Time piece saying of Luna, "She happens to be a marvelous shape, all sort of angular and immensely tall and strange. She has a kind of bite and personality."
 
DONYALE LUNA IN TRIGERE
HARPER'S BAZAAR APRIL 1965
RICHARD AVEDON




HARPER'S BAZAAR JUNE 1965
RICHARD AVEDON









"SATYRICON" AND THE EYES OF DONYALE LUNA
VOGUE MAY 1970

Her International acclaim led to movie offers from top European directors Federico Fellini, Otto Preminger and Carmel Bene. For Otto Preminger’s Skidoo, Luna played the role of God’s mistress.  She caused a stir as Oenothea in Fellini’s Satyricon, and landed the starring role in Carmel Bene’s Salome. Other film roles included the fire-eater’s assistant in Rolling Stone’s Rock and Roll Circus, and Luna appeared in Peter Whitehead’s Tonite Let’s All Make Love in London, a semi-documentary about 'swinging London.' 









DONYALE LUNA - SATYRICON
VOGUE APRIL 1969
FRANCO PINNA

In an April 1975 Playboy magazine, Richard Avedon addressed Luna's abrupt departure from the American fashion pages. “For reasons of racial prejudice, and the economics of the fashion business, I was never permitted to photograph her for publication again.” 



DONYALE LUNA
LUIGI CAZZANIGA
PLAYBOY APRIL 1975


"I like class, I like taste, I like style, and, most of all, I love respect - and there's very little respect in America." 
Donyale Luna
Playboy April 1975








"I have many visions of myself when I go through photographic trips," Donyale has said.  "I've gone through periods from Nefertiti to Josephine Baker."
Donyale Luna
Playboy April 1975


LUIGI CAZZANIGA
PLAYBOY APRIL 1975








LUIGI CAZZANIGA
PLAYBOY APRIL 1975

"There's a great division coming about on this planet.  There are going to be a lot of people who will die because they just don't know how to live. They don't know what life's about, they don't know how to give, how to love - nor do they want to. And those who are beautiful enough - I don't mean physically but something beyond that - they will have the chance to learn how to fly, to be beautiful, to rise above the level of the normal human - to be superior beings first and eventually gods and goddesses."
Donyale Luna
Playboy April 1975






LUIGI CAZZANIGA
PLAYBOY APRIL 1975

Her relationships were many and varied, from the Rolling Stone’s Brian Jones, to actor Klaus Kinski with engagements to Austrian actor Maximilian Schell and German actor George Willings. Luna had a daughter named Dream with Italian photographer Luigi Cazzaniga who photographed her for the April 1975 issue of Playboy.



LUIGI CAZZANIGA
PLAYBOY APRIL 1975


A larger than life figure admitting to a fondness for LSD, Luna eventually sabotaged her career by missing bookings and exhibiting strange behavior while working. Luna died in a Rome clinic after a drug overdose. She was thirty-four years old.




Donyale Luna
1945 - 1979
Once a Great Beauty







CORPUS CRISTI CAROL




Jeff Buckley was the son of the legendary California-based musician Tim Buckley, who, in his short decade-long career played with Nico, opened for the Mother’s of Invention, Jimi Hendrix, the Doors and upstaged the Jefferson Airplane at the height of their fame. A musician’s musician, Tim Buckley received more acclaim from other performers than from the record-buying public and developed a drug addiction that eased the disappointments of recordings that were not widely accepted. Buckley overdosed in June of 1975 dying from acute heroin and alcohol intoxication.



Jeff Buckley was born in 1966 and died in a tragic drowning accident in Memphis on May 29, 1997 shortly before completing the follow-up to Grace, his highly acclaimed debut studio album.

He developed his talent in New York City's avant-garde club scene and tiny coffee houses of the East Village, emerging as one of the most remarkable musical artists of his generation, acclaimed by audiences, critics, fellow musicians and some of the most revered musicians of our time.

Released in 1994, Buckley’s first studio album Grace, had praise from Bob Dylan, who named Buckley as “one of the great songwriters of this decade.”
David Bowie, named Grace as on of the ten albums he would take with him to a desert island. Jimmy Page is reported to have considered Grace close to being his “Favorite album of the decade.”


It was not until early 1997 that Buckley was ready to complete his follow-up album Sketches for my Sweetheart the Drunk.
The night Buckley died, he was on his way to meet his band to begin three weeks of rehearsals for my Sweetheart, the Drunk; Grace producer Andy Wallace, was to join them in late June at Easley McCain Recording in Memphis. That evening, Buckley went swimming in the Wolf River Harbor – a slack water channel of the Mississippi River. Fully clothed and singing Led Zeppelin’s Whole Lotta Love, he was with a roadie in his band, Keith Foti, who remained on shore moving a radio and guitar out of reach of the wake from a passing tugboat. By the time Foti looked back, Buckley had vanished. Despite a major rescue effort into the night, Buckley remained missing. Six days later, two locals spotted his body in the Mississippi River near a riverboat.
Buckley’s autopsy showed no signs of drugs or alcohol in his system. His death was ruled as an accidental drowning. He was thirty-one-years-old. 

Jeffrey Scott "Jeff" Buckley
1966 - 1997
Once a Great Beauty















Tuesday, May 10, 2011

BARBRA STREISAND: RUDI GERNREICH: THE THIS MINUTE KIDS - 1964




THE BIRD LOOK
STREISAND IN FULL PLUMAGE, HEADDRESS BY LEON BENNETT, FOR RUDI GERNEICH
WILLIAM CLAXTON



SHE is the overnight success, the American Cinderella, who made it out of Brooklyn to smashing Broadway stardom. She married her leading man, acquired an aerie on Central Park West and an even greater smash hit in her current starring role in “Funny Girl.”  She has now sewed it all up with the fine print of a multi-million dollar television contract.





HE is the consummate showman, the artist as press agent, the man who packed an uproarious crowd into an equally uproarious fashion show where the touted star was to be the American woman, unadorned.  Though she never appeared, he and his fashion were front-page news.







THEY are the boisterous reigning monarchs of the American Dream, and if they march to a different tune than the rest of the country, millions of the faithful will swear that the rest of the country is out of step.






Here they meet as Streisand models Gernreich

Barbra Streisand under the yashmak, Leon Bennett's adaptation of a Mohammedan woman's veil. From shoulder to thigh, Gernreich's black and tan reversible camel hair dress and coat. Long black suede boots over black wool stockings, both by Capezio. 




THE THIS MINUTE KID 
In black Italian chiffon woven to look like lace.



WHO NEEDS CHINCHILLA 
Thick fake lamb's wool with the coat lined to match the bulky dress 
Black felt pillbox tops it off




BITTERSWEET BARBRA 
In a confection of chocolate brown and poison green silk matte jersey




BARBRA STREISAND - RUDI GERNREICH
SHOW MAGAZINE 1964
PHOTOGRAPHS - WILLIAM CLAXTON



Wednesday, May 4, 2011

HARPER'S BAZAAR PRESENTS: RICHARD AVEDON - AUDREY HEPBURN - MEL FERRER - PARIS PURSUIT









ANGUS & JULIA STONE - PAPER AEROPLANE



HARPER'S BAZAAR - PARIS PURSUIT
SEPTEMBER 1959



SCENE: GARE DU NORD




JEMIMA:  Monsieur, Je suis ravie d'avoir fait votre connaissance. J'espere tant vos revoir. A bientot, a tout a l'heure...


DALLAS: (to himself)  Goldernit, ignorance is a rope around your neck! Me meeting a pretty little pinto like this'n, and can't understand a word of the lingo




Audrey Hepburn and Mel Ferrer - Audrey is wearing Dior's grey flannel turned under at a deep knee band.





Buster Keaton waits with luggage by Vuitton, Hermes. 







SCENE: OUTSIDE GARE DU NORD


JEMIMA: Oh Simone, Simone, what a ring-a-ding divine guy! Why do I always have to be such a show-off and a fool?  What devil drives me!  Why did I pretend to be French!


Audrey Hepburn wears Nina Ricci white coat carved in Garigue wool fleece








DALLAS:  Giddayap, Thunderbrow,  hit the trail for the Ritz!


Audrey Hepburn wears Nina Ricci's puff-sleeved peplum suit wrapped with a 5" cinch






SCENE:  THE RITZ


CONCIERGE:  Je m'excuse, Monsieur Thunderbrow, but we have not the suites avec le weegwam.


DALLAS: (to himself)   Can't kick that cute little palomino out of my head. How's a man gonna' corral one French filly in a herd of them as big as this?




JEMIMA:  Don't cry, Simone. Seven feet of Texas can't disappear, not even in Paris. We'll just go out and find him.


Audrey Hepburn wears Dior's puffed tunic skirt in a bare-armed dinner dress worn with a matching jacket




DALLAS:  You must know her. Sure you know her. Anybody'd know her.  Why, you'd know her by her eyes!


Audrey Hepburn wears Dior




SCENE:  LE COMMISSARIAT DE POLICE


JEMIMA:  Well, no, he hasn't committed a crime. No, he's not my husband. He isn't even a friend.  Not really.  Not exactly.  I want to find him because...just because...because, golly.  I guess he's the man I love.


Audrey Hepburn wears Cardin




SCENE:  MAXIM'S ON FRIDAY NIGHT


JEMIMA:  I  hope you don't think I'm that kind of girl or anything.  The only reason I spoke to you, without really knowing you, is, well... there's something about you that reminds me of someone.


Audrey Hepburn wears Dior's white crystallized puffed tunic silhouette




SCENE:  MOULIN ROUGE, SAME NIGHT


1st COCOTTE:  ( speaking to Thunderbrow)  Je m'excuse, Monsieur, but here they do not serve la Prairie Oyster!




2nd COCOTTE: ( ZSA ZSA GABOR)  Why do you go on speaking about this one girl with her eyes! Come along , bebe, we'll show you eyes - and lips - and legs.  We'll show you le vrai Paris!


Zsa Zsa Gabor wears Heim





IT WAS SATURDAY.  THEN IT WAS SUNDAY.  THE DAYS WENT BY AS IN A DREAM


Audrey Hepburn wears Cardin's drop waist belted tunic and  Guy Laroche's doublet-paneled tunic dress





EVERYWHERE JEMIMA WENT, AND EVERYWHERE SHE LOOKED...
Audrey Hepburn wears Michel Goma and Cardin


Audrey Hepburn wears Dior and Chanel


China Machado  wears Gres Great-collared greatcoat and  Cardin's pale faille evening dress



SCENE:  UNDER THE EIFFEL TOWER

DALLAS:  We've been camping under this oil derrick for six days now.  Guidebook said it was the crossroads of Paris, and still no sign of her.  Pack up, Thunderbrow, let's blow this town and climb the highest mountain we can find! 





JEMIMA:  We may as well give up.  I guess I'm just doomed to be one of those spinsters wo lives alone and feeds cats.  Oh dear, I am sorry, Simone.  I didn't mean to be mean.  I just don't know any more what I'm saying or doing!  We'll leave today, now, quickly, go where there's nothing but skies and peace.


Audrey Hepburn wears Chanel's gold-etched pullover






SCENE:  THE ITALIAN ALPS


Audrey Hepburn wears Patrick de Barentzen

MEL FINDS AUDREY HIGH ON A MOUNTAIN TOP



Audrey Hepburn wears Antonio de Luca's Peruvian tunic wedding dress

THE END

RICHARD AVEDON
AUDREY HEBURN
MEL FERRER
BUSTER KEATON
ZSA ZSA GABOR
ANNETTE STROYBERG
ART BUCHWALD

Monday, May 2, 2011

AVEDON OBSERVATIONS ON PERFECTION: PASSEMENTERIE 1961









Passementerie is the art of making elaborate trimmings  (passements) of applied braid, metallic cord, embroidery, silken threads or beads for the detailed enhancement of clothing or furnishings.

Examples of Passementerie is the adornment used on military or royal dress uniforms, couture and bridal wear, trims on draperies, lampshades and theatre prosceniums.





MAISON BOUDIN - PARIS - 1961



In the center of Paris today, on eighteenth-century hand-weaving machines, there work a dozen craftsmen dedicated to preserving the incredibly intricate art of weaving passementarie - the silken braid, tassels and Jacquarded ribbons, each literally jewellike, which enhance the treasured furnishings of the palaces and museums throughout the world.





Here in the Maison Boudin, where the continuing objective is perfection, the men are often semi-suspended at their looms, for their touch must be weightless.




A MAN WEAVES BUT A SINGLE YARD OF RIBBON IN A WEEK



This quiet world of endless precision is remindful of the extent to which human beings will go to create a thing of beauty.

AVEDON:
OBSERVATIONS
                 ON
     PERFECTION





Richard Avedon photographed a collection of observations throughout his career as a fashion photographer. This portfolio followed on the heels of his much-anticipated first book "Observations," a collection of photographs accompanied with comments by Truman Capote published by Simon and Schuster in 1959.