devodotcom: Schiaparelli

Showing posts with label Schiaparelli. Show all posts

Monday, November 17, 2014

FUR REAL

Kendrick Lamar - Promise that you will sing about me ...

The Thing:
Guanaco Hair Seal

Above: Russet guanaco "a guanaco is a Peruvian camel, scales the Andes instead of the dunes, hooded jacket with side slits for ultimate mobility." By Georges Kaplan.

The Thing:
Mink Nutria

Natural domestic nutria in pitch brown in a slender three-quarter length reefer.

Fredrica Furs

Kitov-processed Alaska Fur Seal - knitted dress by Caledonia. Kislav gloves.

Christian Dior-New York

All-weather country coat with a removable lining of deep brown nutria. Water-repellent cotton poplin outer-shell.

The Thing:

River Otter Mink In Depth

From Fantasia, Beige-dyed Brazilian river otter with a pale mink collar.

Simply elegant fur-nishing

"Mink worked with the fluency of silk. The skirt arcs to a raised waist tied with a great sash." Designed by Emeric Partos for Bergdorf Goodman. Hat (probably Halston)from Bergdorf Goodman.

Anne St. Marie's regal countenance is best examined under fur. Here, a pale, three-quarter length theatre coat in a "pure goblet shape."

Emba "Tourlamine" mink - Ritter Brothers

Its The Real Thing ...

Fur in Variety is the Thing! 1958

Nothing could be more the thing than China Machado in a "jacket of tawny Siamese tiger falling wide at the waist, closing at the back." By Scassi at Henri Bendel.

Front closure or back closure, the cut is current and offers endless possibilities.

"Clarity is the province of Persian lamb," (must be a Vreelandism.)

Carmen Dell-Orefice stands demure in Schiaparelli's mocha Persian lamb.

Persian lamb - it hangs heavy and definitely has a different handle than being wrapped in mink or sable. Still, it maintains its own brand of sophistication. Quieter, more casual and unannounced.

"Thirty-five controlled inches dropping in a crisp right triangle."

Black-dyed Hammer Brand processed Southwest African Persian lamb by Zimmerman-Scher.

The Ultimate

Empress Chinchilla - Christie Brothers

The ultimate wrap, a "demi-swath of chinchilla - the remarkable beauty of the fur is underlined by a design which juxtaposes vertical and horizontal bands."

Like a diamond jeweller contemplating the final cut. Well done!

A Christine Keeler coat that has never gone out of style.

Empress chinchilla - Frishman and Gintel

must have one

FURS

Harper's Bazaar November 1958

Photography:

Gleb Derujinsky

Dan Wynn

... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Sunday, January 12, 2014

BELLE OF THE BALL 1952

Your Future in a Crystal Bottle

Balenciaga

A package of black lace, tied twice with pink satin ribbons. The lace shadows but shows the figure to the knees where it bursts into sprays of flounces - to the ankles in the front, to the floor and beyond in the back. More lace, a scarf to bind the hair and wind around the throat. Add an orangey, flowery southern breeze with "Le Dix" - Balenciaga's explicit perfume.

"Daily, there are many questions a woman must ask. Can I wear my red suit another year? Did father's telegram mean daylight saving or standard time? Who sits next to whom tonight at dinner? But to perfume, you can put the questions asked of a daisy or a first star.

This perfume and I...what might not happen to the two of us together?"

Schiaparelli

A bandage of black wool jersey strapping every curve from chin to knees - there it is wound with thick swags, then below, set free into full circles, the front one shorter than those behind. The only decoration needed - Sciaparelli's "Shocking" perfume all sweetness and light.

After the rose gatherers and blenders have done, what lies stoppered tight waiting to step into your future?

Bright With Black

Patou

Patou's filmy black lace flickering with brandy-flame blue. The bodice has a scalloped rim of blueness, great rows of ruffle flounces are set in crescents from hip to hem - with the ups and downs of the skirt, there is a blinding blueness at the bottom. Patou's rose-packed perfume is "Joy."

For the right perfume can conjure up a future worth remembering.

White Straw Lace

Balmain

One of the new sensational laces of Paris, shiny and here shined more with sequins. From the fur-edged bodice, the peacock skirt, hung with chains of mink, sways, sweeps, trails off.

Pale With White

Gres

Gres has poured gallons of chiffon into a narrow dress of jersey sliced into a million supple pleats the colour of poetry. Over mauve pink is twisted and tied a great length of white jersey that winds the breast and streams free, like a banner in the wind, to the hem.

White and Gold

Lanvin-Castillo

Great white peacock coat that seems to be one long train, wool inset with embroidered leaves of gold braid and sequins. To trail with it, Lanvin's "Arpege" - the perfume that smells like parties.