Tuesday, September 15, 2015

WALKER EVANS: THE UNPOSED PORTRAIT




















The crashing non-euphoria of New York subway life may someday be recorded by a modern Dickens or Daumier. The setting is a sociological gold mine awaiting a major artist. Meanwhile it can be the dream 'location' for any portrait photographer weary of the studio and of the horrors of vanity. Down in the swaying sweatbox he finds a parade of unselfconscious captive sitters, the selection of which is automatically destined by raw chance. 

The portraits on these pages were caught by a hidden camera, in the hands of a penitent spy and an apologetic voyeur. But the rude and impudent invasion involved has been carefully softened and partially mitigated by a planned passage of time. These pictures were made twenty years ago, and deliberately preserved from publication.

As it happens, you don't see among them the face of a judge or a senator or a bank president. What you do see is at once sobering, startling and obvious: these are the ladies and gentlemen of the jury.

Walker Evans






















The guard is down and the mask is off: even more than when in lone bedrooms ( where there are mirrors ),  people's faces are in naked repose down in the subway.  To test and examine this special state, Walker Evans spent weeks underground,  strapped to a Leica.


































































His hunt there for true portraiture netted a sizeable stack of remarkable prints: eight are produced here.







Evans' most comprehensive book, 'American Photographs', appears next month in a new edition published by the Museum of Modern Art and Doubleday.




Walker Evans: The Unposed Portrait
Harper's Bazaar March 1962
Photography: Walker Evans

Wednesday, May 27, 2015

DOVIMA AND AVEDON - PARIS 1950










Fath's reversible red satin evening dress, flaring below the knee. The cape is in green - the reverse side of the satin - and held by two cufflike bands of mink











Dior's steel gray ottoman with taffeta panels in lighter grays










Chaumont's white tulle with bias skirt











Chaumont's silk sheath in olive satin











Balenciaga's gold-embroidered sheath, with a chiffon jacket












Gres's arum lily - white satin over lemon jersey
Fath's huge stole over beige faille
Gres's red faille showing white jersey in front
Balenciaga's satin basque, heavily jewelled, over pale pink tulle 












Balenciaga's white satin dress with a tight bodice embroidered with rubies and pearls.






The Evening Fashion at the Paris Openings
Harper's Bazaar September 1950
Photography: Richard Avedon
Model: Dovima



... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Tuesday, May 26, 2015

PARIS OPENINGS FALL 1950



Balenciaga's Vingt-Trois










Fath's under-a-coat dress
Balenciaga's cocktail suit dress











Balenciaga's Barrel Coat










Gres ... Dior
Piguet ... Molyneux
Gres ... Gres










Balenciaga









Griffe ... Dior
Desses ... Dior
Schiaparelli ... Molyneux









Dior









Desses ... Dior
Balenciaga ... Dior






Carmel Snow's Report on the Paris Openings
Harper's Bazaar September 1950
Photography: Richard Avedon



... eyes on the fifties at devodotcom

Monday, May 18, 2015

TOP KNOTCH TOP KNOTS






White satin, brown velvet, and sparkling jet by Branell
Coiffure by Kenneth Battale











Black jersey shirtdress by Oscar de la Renta
Coiffure by Kenneth Battale









Pearl grey through sky blue empire knit shirtdress by Leslie Fay
Coiffure by Kenneth Battale  











Palest pale grey suede by Viola for Samuel Robert.
Coiffure by Kenneth Battale




The New York Collections
Vogue September 1969
Photography: Irving Penn









Grey Knit, white buttons by Leslie Fay









Top - Polo-shirt dress by Elle Couture
Below - Panel-front knit by Belfa of Geneva










Wool knit by Rona










Wool knit by Cadillac









Avagolf wool knit dress
Top - White knit, brown knit, by Sylvia de Gay 










Dress and coat, black and white, by Betty Carol for Mam'selle.











Black and bared halter neck knit by Howard Lawrence for Dalton





Knits Now and Forever
Vogue June 1968
Coiffures: Hugh Harrison
Photography: Gianni Penati




... eyes on the sixties at devodotcom

Sunday, May 10, 2015

Saturday, May 9, 2015

I REMEMBER MAMA





Christian Dior Boutique










Emanuel Ungaro Couture











Christian Lacroix Haute Couture










Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche













Comme des Garcons










Chanel Boutique


... If it's not one thing it's your mother





Reves de Robe
Vogue Paris December 1991
Photography: Dominique Issermann



... eyes on the nineties at devodotcom