Monday, February 17, 2014

PARIS REPORT 1958


Cardin by Night


Pouf of black Liberat Veiling - inspired by a pastry chef's hat 
Baroque Beads and Rhinestones at the throat
Twenty-two layers of Tulle
Lanvin-Castillo



Heim's Trio of Fluted Tulle


Dior's Arched Skirts


Dior
In The Romantic Tradition



Balmain
Velvet Big Sleeves





Cardin's Cartridge Pleat Coats


The Longer Bulkier Glove
Viola Weinberger
Koret Bag
Avedon Photograph


Sequined Evening Shoe by Newton Elkin
Avedon photograph



Theatre Boot
Ben Somoroff photograph



The Arm Case
Ben Somoroff photograph



Paris Report



Harper's Bazaar
Paris Report 
September 1958


... eye on the fifites at devodotcom

Saturday, February 15, 2014

HAVE A NICE WEEKEND !





Three New Pajamas
Harper's Bazaar December 1940
Photography: Hoyningen-Huene


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Friday, February 14, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE - CHARLES JAMES - HOYNINGEN-HUENE





A truly great women's fashion designer must have an abiding love for women. Charles James demonstrated his love of the female form through his masterful cutting and innovative design that afforded a woman ease of wear coupled with a captivating glamour rarely duplicated. 

His legacy is that of a designer's designer.  More commonly known couturiers - Balenciaga and Dior, among others, applauded Charles James. He is known as the true 'Master of Couture,' and his legendary creations continue to inspire and inform the work of today's designers.

Charles James passed away at the Chelsea Hotel in 1978. He had retired twenty-years earlier but maintained three rooms at the hotel where he continued to live and create, ultimately becoming a part of the Chelsea's long list of memorable residents.



Charles James
Resort Fashion
Harper's Bazaar January 1941
Photography: Hoyningen-Huene


... eye on love at devodotcom



Thursday, February 13, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE



Rene Russo


Shares The Love ...




Rewards For Fitness
Vogue May 1974
Photography: Avedon


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Wednesday, February 12, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE


Martha Gellhorn  and Ernest Hemingway
Sun Valley 1941



"Martha Gellhorn and Ernest Hemingway, at Sun Valley just after their marriage. Before the winter is out, Mrs. Hemingway is planning to set forth on a journalistic venture to the Burma Road."


The Crack Skiers Wear - 
Harper's Bazaar January 1941
Photography: Lloyd Arnold



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Monday, February 10, 2014

Sunday, February 9, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE



Stella




Gail and her son Cole
Harper's Bazaar December 1965
Photography: Louis Faurer

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Saturday, February 8, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE


Monsieur Jacques Fath
Bettina

Born, Simone Micheline Bodin, Bettina was the lead model of the House of Fath. She was a personal favourite of designer Jacques Fath who created her iconic-fifties image by ordering up a pixie hair-cut and the single moniker "Bettina."


The Judgment of Paris
Harper's Bazaar March 1950
Photography: Louise Dahl-Wolfe

... eye on love at devodotcom


Friday, February 7, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE


Audrey Hepburn
Mel Ferrer



Double Billing
Harper's Bazaar March 1959
Photography: Avedon

... eye on love at devodotcom

Thursday, February 6, 2014

SHARE THE LOVE


Christopher Plummer and Tammy Grimes




Erykah Badu - Gone Baby Gone Baby Don't Be Long

The tousled lady nibbling a geranium leaf from her husband's lapel is Tammy Grimes, a sly, sequin-eyed comic whose preposterous, worn-out voice entertained the customers at Julius Monk's Downstairs. She played a fille de jois in Marcel Ayme's Clerambard off Broadway and will star in Noel Coward's Look After Lulu. Her Husband, Christopher Plummer, is a supple, somber actor from Montreal whose range of experience, good looks and intelligence have made him one of the stirring presences in the American theatre. 

Double Billing
Harper's Bazaar March 1959
Photography: Richard Avedon

... eye on the fifties at devodotcom

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

VERY FRENCH VERY FIFTIES


The inimitable Gabrielle Chanel poses behind Suzy Parker who wears a favourite suit from Chanel's collection. Navy blue and white Prince of Wales check lined and outlined in the black and white checks of the silk surah blouse underneath.



Eternally feminine Anouk Aimee wears the white Hurel basketweave wool Chanel that opened the spring collection. The curve of the jacket into the body is new. The rest is a reiteration of the Chanel articles of faith - ease, a play of jewels, bright buttons.


Madame Alix Gres is a designer's designer. Shy and unaffected, she has been sculpting clothes of classic beauty for almost three decades. A recent trip to India inspired this coat reminiscent of Nehru's - a width of sleeve and a flaring tunic line.



The Master - at the time Dior's 23 year-old heir, Yves Saint Laurent, with Suzy Parker in his jacket - deliberately cut so narrow it can never be buttoned, tossed on the shoulders of a sleeveless dress in Rodier gray and white shepherd's check wool.


Dior bootery and boutique


Dolores Guinness, one of the world's great beauties in Lanvin-Castillo's free translation from the Indian sari - a dress of gold embroidered white silk organdie with a brief magenta satin bodice.


Zizi Jeanmaire in the belted overcoat from Dior



Pierre Cardin widens the top of the silhouette with great bursts of sleeve extended from an open neckline on this creamy wool short jacket suit. The suit - topped with a big back-blown Breton in pale rice straw.


The Future Countess of Bedford, Henrietta Tiarks, wears Cardin. The upright collar is set like a stem in an evening coat of heavy silk shantung which bursts into leaf - the shape and color of a stylized artichoke.


Suzy Parker in Balmain. A dinner suit of white pique embroidered with silver thread, rhinestones and chalk paillettes slashed to the knee and casually jacketed.


Spotted all over Paris, China Machado in Patou's slim dotted dinner dress curved loosley to the figure with a broad black leather belt rising above the waist... at the bar, Patou combines a jet-dotted white surah bodice with a separate, full skirt of black silk Gazar, as starched and coarse as tarlatan - and bands both in black satin.


China Machado twirls in Dior's cabbage rose chiffon skirted dress in an impressionist print of winter green, beige and palest yellow. The skirt flowers out in tiered panels to just below the knees.


Bianchini chiffon printed like nasturtium blooms of yellow, orange and green from Desses. Floating panels begin at the shoulders, caught in at the waist and then stream out over the hem in back.


Dior capturing - with a single, white organdie hat - the heady essence of Paris in May. Pure white embroidered with jewelled lilies of the valley.



French Sex Kitten Brigitte Bardot


Paris Present
Eyes On Paris and America
Harper's Bazaar March 1959
Photography: Richard Avedon

...eye on the fifties at devodotcom