Thursday, May 27, 2010

Marilyn Monroe "The Last Sitting" Vogue September Issue 1962


September 1, 1962

“The Last Sitting”

Marilyn Monroe by Bert Stern

This issue contains seven pages of the last photographs taken of Marilyn Monroe six weeks before her death on August 5th, 1962. Vogue published the pages in this issue the day after Monroe died for the September 1, issue. It is arguably, the most famous of  Vogue’s “September Issue”.

More than 2,500 photographs were taken over a three-day period by renowned fashion and commercial photographer Bert Stern, who was commissioned for the shoot by Vogue magazine. He was the last photographer to be granted a sitting by Marilyn Monroe. The session included fashion, portrait, and nude studies of Monroe. It was the last time Marilyn would pose in front of a camera. Six weeks later, the actress was found dead in her home.

As they were the last posed photographs taken of Monroe, the portfolio became known as “The Last Sitting”. The portfolio remains the world’s largest and finest tribute to Marilyn Monroe.

The Cover photograph of this issue is by acclaimed art director and photographer Art Kane. The cover features a suit by Ben Zuckerman and a hat by then hat designer, Halston of Bergdorf Goodman.

Halston achieved fame after designing the pillbox hat Jacqueline Kennedy wore to her husband’s 1961 inauguration and went on to become one of the top fashion designers of the seventies, known for designing fashions worn by entertainers and the jet set of that era. In 1990, Halston died from complications of AIDS. His clothing line has been recently resurrected, and features strongly in the fashions and promotion of the new “Sex and The City 2”.

Early in Art Kane’s career, he created page layouts for Esquire Magazine. He left Esquire when he was made art director of Seventeen Magazine. An award-winning art director, Kane was also interested in photography and studied with Harper’s Bazaar art director, Alexey Brodovitch - mentor to Avedon and others. Kane’s first assignment as a photographer was back at Esquire. His photo of 57 jazz musicians in Harlem was featured in Esquire’s January 1959 issue which became the basis for the documentary, “A Great Day in Harlem”.

This Marilyn Monroe Fashion feature  is re-visited on our September 1, 2011 blog

Marilyn Monroe
Once a Great Beauty

monroe admin girl @devodotcom


devodotcom posts on Marilyn Monroe

WEEGEE – STRETCH CHARACTERS                  3-11-12

HOLLYWOOD MCABRE                                         10-30-11

MARILYN MONROE – REVISITED                         9-1-11

MARILYN MONROE REMEMBERED                   5-25-11


Wednesday, May 26, 2010

Harper's Bazaar April, 1965 - Richard Avedon Special Issue

a funky space reincarnation
Marvin Gaye

What’s Happening?

Op and Top Fashion

Harper’s Bazaar
April 1965

Richard Avedon is celebrating twenty years with Bazaar and is the sole photographer for this issue. In October, 2005, the cover placed #15 on a list of the greatest magazine covers of the past 40 years by the American Society of Magazine Editors at The 2005 American Magazine Conference in Puerto Rico. It also won the New York Director’s Club Medal and remains an iconic symbol of the sixties.

The beauty of Jean Shrimpton and Donyale Luna rest inside the pages along with portraits of a young Paul McCartney, Ringo Starr and Bob Dylan. From the art world, Avedon photographs Henry Geldzahler, Jasper Johns, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Raushenberg, and Alex Hay. There's artwork from experimental filmmaker, Stan Vanderbeek, and the issue includes George Segal’s,"Woman Washing Her Feet". The literary talents are listed below in the Editor's Guestbook.

This issue, guest edited by Richard Avedon, is a partial passport to the off-beat side of Now

A Cursory Glossary to its in-most Lingo: the glossary explains all the new colloquialisms on several pages highlighted with a Pop Art Fantasy created by Roy Lichtenstein.

Editor’s Guest Book: Guest Editor and photographer Richard Avedon…Writings by Lane Dunlop and Ree Dragonette…Alfred Duhrssen and Marvin Cohen…Tom Wolfe…Renata Adler…George Moorse…George Segal…Dr. Gerald Oster…Bob Bishop…Stan Vanderbeek…Roy Lichtenstein…Nicky Haslam

Art - Fashion - Personalities:

The Galactic Beauty to the Rescue: Jean Shrimpton in Bill Blass…

Op and Pop Fashions: more Shrimpton in designs from Julian Tomchin…Townley…Stripes by Young Elegant

Testing The Pull of Gravity: Lunar legs by Herbert Levine…

Paul McCartney – A Man of the Moment photographed by Avedon

What’s Happening: Courréges goes modern

Moon Magnetics: Denzinger illustrates over Avedon’s photographs to create a ‘moon painting’ displaying fashions from B.H. Wragge, Geoffrey Beene…

Shrimpton as the earth girl relaxes by the Sea of Tranquility in a Parisian Maid nightdress. Galactic Girl in the Sun: Shrimpton as the Galactic Girl in a look-of-the-future jumpsuit by Loomtogs and a knit after-swim suit by Bess Art…The Galactic Girl on the Moon: in a quilted white nylon sailing jacket by White Stag…and madly wonderful in a black waterproof sailing suit and parka by Ernst Engel…

Night Birds: Avedon photographs fashions mid-air - blue and yellow printed long culotte dress from Serendipity 3 pink silk gauze jumpsuit from Simonetta…China Machado in Galitzine’s silken fantasy pajamas…Valentino’s voluminous paisley-patterned crepe pajamas veiled in matching chiffon

What’s Happening:
“Shrimp” the “Mod” model. This bird is what’s happening

Fruggin’ The Fat Away – at Trude Heller’s: Pamela Tiffin star of Stan Vanderbeck’s first feature film, “A Dam Rib Bed” and a pop-short, “His-Hers” he is writing especially for her; Monti Rock III, the hairdresser.

Luna in Galanos: Donyale Luna wears James Galanos - four fiercely fabulous pages of Luna

The ‘moire’ art of Dr. Oster: optical illusions grace Donyale Luna in moiré fabric designs by Trigére and Bill Blass

Dali’s discovery Adil – yound faun and model for his latest painting, Hermes, combining pop and op art techniques, here in an imported maillot of rib-knitted cotton by Lydia de Roma

Night at Home: Night on the Town: in fashions by Emilio Pucci…Abe Schrader

Ringo – photographs by Avedon – more about the Avedon photo session with Ringo and other memories about photographing this issue can be found in, then assistant, Earl Steinbicker’s wonderful stories at the following link:

Keeping with the fashion… photographs by Avedon continue and the style of the photographs are art unto themselves.

Norell in Clear Focus: Norman Norell’s Kabuki dressand Norell’s molded suit…

Clear-cut Tailoring: from Courréges of Paris…Galitzine of Rome…Fourquet of Rome…Norell of New York…

Avedon photographs Gianni Agnelli’s wife, fashion icon Signora Marella Agnelli, in wildly patterned tights and shiny vinyl jacket and boots leaning on an Agostini sculpture

What’s About to Happen: “El Cid” – Lew Alcindor - honor student, team captain, is what’s about to happen in basketball. Photographed by Avedon

The Period Piece: pop art sculptor, Claes Oldenburg’s plaster bedroom sculpture reminiscent of the Forties highlights a white shift nightgown from Vanity Fair…Stephanie Farrow (Mia’s sister) in knickers trimmed with embroidery and lace by Gotham…


The Lunar Glow for the girl (galactic or not) by Estée Lauder, the lady astronaut’s best friend…

The fingernails in your future – (whether on Mars or Main Street, U.S.A.) chromotones from Faberge

The Mercury Blonde: Roux’s White Minx shade with silver patina on Jean Shrimpton, the young English bundle of fire who personifies what’s happening all over - caught by Avedon’s quicker than lightning camera.

The Death of the Diet – Donyale Luna and Veruschka in Rudi Gernreich…


Pariah Styles: The New Chic by Tom Wolfe

Two Poems by Lane Dunlop…”To a Girl, Asleep & Awake”…”Note on the Heart”

Will you Speak to Anyone Who Answers? By Renata Adler

Richard Avedon photographs full pages on Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Henry Geldzahler; artist Jasper Johns; Robert Raushenberg and colleague Alex Hay; and the teenager's troubadour, Bob Dylan

Extract from “Memoir of an Aged Child” by Alfred Duhrssen

George Segal: “Woman Washing Her Feet” a sculpture

“Cave and Galaxy” by Lee Dragonette

Extract from “The Contemporary Art of Temporary Life” by Marvin Cohen

Underground Filmmakers: Experimental filmmaker, Stan Vanderbeek made this original 2-page montage expressly for Harper’s Bazaar, using photographs of foremost film makers of Underground movies (the name he coined for the controversial new American film trend).

Live and Ad Lib: London – the new English rose is what’s happening in London, unselfconscious girls in their Sassoon monsoon-cuts and the Ad Lib is the club they are partying at – with Nureyev, Ringo, Bailey, Donovan

The Young Londoners: Richard Avedon’s observations on the “mod” scene in photographs

Lucy Bartlett, granddaughter of Lily Langtry, is photographed in navy wool crepe with three layers of white organdie by Gerald McCann…Jacquetta, Lady Eliot in white crepe by Tuffin and Foale…Tony Armstrong’s white linen sheath on Chrissie Shrimpton with Footprints singer Doug Gibbons…Caroline Charles’ black silk and white lace sheath on Jean Shrimpton focussing on Hugh Murphy…From Jane and Jane, long-sleeved white crepe dress on Chrissie Shrimpton next to Scottish folk singer Roddy Cameron…Jane and Jane’s batiste print dress trimmed in lace on model Christine Eastley with Adrian Ancora in velvet jacket and turtleneck…Gerald McCann’s vanilla trousers and eggplant crepe top on model Rocky Sands with singer Bobby Jameson and the creators of the “London Scene” Jane and Julian Ormsby Gore wear the “London Look” from Biba…Moya of Top Gear…Avantgarde and finds from Portabello Road…Sarah Lownds wears Teal Traina

Cooking Bazaar: Recipes from Mom – Mike Nichols…Susan Sontag…Beni Montresor…Michael O’Sullivan…Murry Schisgal…Aram Saroyan

Ads: Jean Shrimpton for Revlon “The Worldly Young Innocents”…Camilla Sparv for Revlon “Touch & Glow”…Galanos…Kislav…Jantzen…Tilly Tizzani in the Boca Raton suit for Hart Schaffner & Marx…Dancecraft lockets…Coty Cremesticks…Revillon…Hanes…

250 pages by special order


devodotcom posts on Richard Avedon’s Harper’s Bazaar April 1965

Richard Avedon’s Harper’s Bazaar April 1965              8/01/11                 
Harper’s Bazaar April 1965: The Most Modern Issue Ever   7/28/11
Harper’s Bazaar April 1965: The Most Modern Issue Ever   7/27/11

admin girl @ devodotcom... femaleandfatal

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Harper's Bazaar April 1946. The Embiricos Shipping Dynasty Warts and All

Harper’s Bazaar
April 1946
Cover: Kodachrome by Ernest Beadle
Editor: Carmel Snow
Art Directors: Alexey Brodovitch; Lillian Bassman
Fashion Editors: Diana Vreeland; Nicolas de Gunzburg…
Photography: Richard Avedon; Leslie Gill; Brassai; Louise Dahl Wolfe; Engstead; Landshoff; Ronny Jaques
Kodachromes: Genevieve Naylor; Richard Avedon
Illustrations: S.Johns

Leslie Gill photographs The New Spirit in Beauty:

Bazaar’s Beauty Editor, Dorothy Hay Thompson, on the fashion in beauty

Richard Avedon photographs Mrs. Andre Embiricos, wife of Greek shipping magnate, Andre Embiricos.

The Embiricos family has a long history of news-worthiness apart from the Embiricos’ women appearing on the pages of fashion magazines and society pages.
A gentleman motor racer, Andre Maris Embericos was known for his appreciation of fine automobiles and commissioned many. The Embericos Bentley, as it became known, was the fastest and most stylish saloon car in pre-war Britain.

In 1941, the very married 32-year-old Nicholas Embiricos, and his guest Eleanor Young, the ex-Mrs. Robert Ogden Bacon, Jr. (and ex-Manhattan Glamour girl known as “Cookie”) left Newport R.I. bound for New York after a holiday weekend at her family summer estate. Nicholas had recently left behind his wife and young son in Palm Beach and was in full pursuit of glamour girl Eleanor. Having cancelled the trip a day due to bad weather, they were impatient to visit friends in New York and took –off in less than ideal conditions. Amateur pilot Embiricos, in a mishap eerily similar to John Kennedy Jr.’s tragic plane crash, ran into trouble when a pea-soup fog embraced the Atlantic coast. Nicholas Embiricos had logged only 136 hours in the air. The plane was equipped with only basic instrumentation. Twelve miles down the coast, at Matunuck, a disoriented Nicolas Embiricos began circling madly. Finally he caught a break. He nosed down for a landing in a clear patch but a wave slapped the wings of his Fairchild 24 Monoplane and the plane flipped and crashed in shallow water. Both died. Mrs. Nicholas Embiricos came to own a plantation house on a vast property in the Bahamas.

Just a few years ago another scion of the Embiricos dynasty made a big ‘splash’ in the news. This time, however, the water being gay water sports. When the story broke in 2007, Andrew Embiricos, the twenty-one-year-old son of Princess Yasmin Aga Khan, and grandson of Hollywood legend, Rita Hayworth, had been posting videos of himself on XTube. Young Embiricos – a direct descendant of the prophet Muhammad – posted himself under the screen name “Andrew Sauston.” He enjoyed his secret stardom in three homemade erotic videos of questionable taste and title before the gay press ‘outed’ him and the mainstream press had a field day with his lineage and questionable sexual practices. The videos have since been removed from XTube.
© devomac 5/23/10

Back to fashion in this issue:

After dark fashions…Black and white nights…The apron skirts, the barrel skirts…Cotton wears cotton…Five lines to Spring…The last word in print…London-Made for export only…The underlying story…the evening hemline…linen and lace…the theatre coat…the restaurant suit…young and easy fashions…accessories – a world of difference

Beauty: The Redhead is the Woman of the Year:
A Shorter Cut to beauty – the new shorter do for summer in photographs by Leslie Gill
Telltale Hands
The Tie Silk Bonnet
Primitive Combs from the collection of Julius Carlebach

The Nameless Hour by Albert Camus
Hollywood: Art Leo Lerman on the influence of fine art in the success of Hollywood producer Al Lewin’s films. Works by Max Ernst…Eugene Berman…Leonora Carrington…Dorothea Tanning are shown.
Mexico: Three photographs by Hoyningen-Huene from his book Mexican Heritage.
The Snake Pit: A story by Mary Jane Ward
Mysterious Kor, A story by Elizabeth Bowen
The Mad Women of Paris: From the play “ La Folle de Chaillot “– Marguerite Moreno and cast in photographs by Brassai
The Anatomy of Perfume by Dorothy Hay Thompson
Francis Henry Taylor by Howard Devree
Vodka: Za Vashe Zdorove!
Designers At Home: Fashion designers photographed in their salons at home - Jessica; Pauline Potter; Fira Benenson; Adrian; Valentina; Hattie Carnegie;

Ads: Joan Crawford for Maybelline…Jean Patchett for Seidenbach’s…Eisenberg Ice…Verté for Schiaparelli…George Platt Lynes for Henri Bendel…Adrian at Neiman Marcus…Revlon’s Bachelor’s Coronation 2-page ad…Kislav…Belle-Sharmeer…Adrian at Scruggs Vandervoort Barney…Pete Hawley illustration for Jantzen…Adrian at Best’s…Warner’s…Adrian at Filene’s…Gri Gri Parfums Weil Paris Co….

320 pages

Monday, May 24, 2010

Warhol and The Final Decline and Total Collapse of the American avant-garde

Diane Arbus

I sell history. With each review of a large and varied collection of women’s and gentlemen’s fashion magazines, I am constantly enamoured by the enormous amount of history that rests upon each page. The photographs, the settings, the artists, writers, models, and personalities of the last century evoke a sense of wonder.

I endeavour to share with you some of what I fine to be wonderful and special about the history, culture and style that lies within a particular magazine welcoming your input and knowledge on any of these subjects in an effort to better preserve and honour the images and those pioneers in the various fields of art that lay within the pages.

Esquire The Magazine For Men May, 1969

Cover’s Title: “The final decline and total collapse of the American avant-garde.”
It features Andy Warhol drowning in a can of Campbell’s soup. Inside is the article by Elenore Lester.

Scanning the first of the pages are the ads. The Shelby GT 350/500 powered by Ford – an awesome American automobile that many would thrill to own some forty years later. Another ad offers a free booklet from “La Salle Extension University – A Correspondence Institution” that will tell you how you can become a Computer Programmer and how you can train at home for big earnings in the world’s newest, most exciting profession. Let none of us from the sixties say we were not informed! XKE goes topless with the new Jaguar XKE Convertible Roadster. Bulova offers the Accutron watch – guaranteed to keep time within a minute a month. Another ad proclaims ‘Budweiser is the King of Beers (But you know that)… So you knew that. There’s Russian Premier Alexey Kosygin, newly attired by After Six Formals with the statement, “Frankly, Mr. Kosygin, your tailor should be exiled.” Brave copy, bold times.

The Ads are as much a part of our history as the articles that follow – and there are plenty of articles in this issue. Solid endorsements of how far we have come from the small-minded conformities and prejudices of an earlier, more conservative time in magazine history. This magazine represents an homage to those groundbreaking pioneers of the arts who erupted during the heat of the sixties; leading the way to a freedom of expression in all avenues of the media and the arts that today - we pay no thought to.

“The Wonderful World of George Wallace” by George Lardner Jr. and Jules Loh underlined with the words “Them bones gonna walk around for a while yet – they done got 13.5 percent of the vote”
While campaigning in Laurel, Maryland in May 1972, Wallace was shot four times by a would-be assassin named Arthur Herman Bremer. Bremer's diary, published after his arrest as "An Assassin's Diary," showed that Bremer's assassination attempt was not motivated by politics, but by a desire to become famous, and that President Nixon had also been a possible target. The assassination attempt left Wallace paralyzed, as one of the bullets that hit him had lodged in his spinal column.">

History has shown that this obsession with killing in exchange for the chance to become famous became a recurring theme.

On a Lighter note, the beautiful and multi-talented Candice Bergen wrote and photographed “Little Women” – no, not the passive little women from the movie of the same title, but the aggressive, Wonder Women of Skate known as the Los Angeles Thunderbirds. Perhaps not that much of a lighter note...Bergen writes of Tuesday nights at the Roller Races at the Los Angeles Olympic Auditorium. She photographs her subjects and her story’s teaser reads, “What has forty wheels, seven tits, and fights? I give up – but am willing to put myself there alongside an audience of “shiny-seat pants, Dr. Scholl’s sandals, purple patent leather, jumbo pink rollers, acrylic fur, plastic sneakers and canary capris.” This apparently was a particular look adopted by a particular group of Los Angelenos long before such items became a fashion statement worn by the likes of Paris and Britney.

“The Shock of Black Recognition - Awakenings to the American Dream” features thoughts by Ralph Bunche; James Farmer; Godfrey Cambridge; Gwendolyn Brooks; Richard Gordon Hatcher; Whitney M. Young, Jr.; each of whom speak about their earliest racial experiences. Recollections powerful in their simplicity, told through the experiences of their youth.

“The Final Decline and Total Collapse of the American Avant-Garde” by Elenore Lester. “Any avant-garde has to be out there avant of something. Used to be, reader, if a man took off his pants in public you called the police. Now you applaud. Drug freaks, revolutionaries, unisexies – you love them all, which is okay for you, maybe, but hell for people trying to stay ahead, like Andy Warhol.”

“Hello to the Dirty Half Dozen, Sierra Bandit, The American Playground and all the Superstars of the New Theatre” – An Album by Andy Warhol – “Say Goodbye to the Dirty Half Dozen, Sierra Bandit, The American Playground and all the Superstars of the New Theatre”. Warhol’s Royaltone photographs feature: The Performance Group; The Dirty Half Dozen; The Living Theatre; Theatre of the Ridiculous; The American Playground; The Pageant Players and a bonus photo of a self-portrait of the grand old man of the avant-garde himself, Andy Warhol, in the buff, scars and all. Upon completion of his essay, as he tucked away his instamatic, Warhol is said to have muttered “Great, but is it art?” Let the viewer let be the judge.

A side note: Heddy Lamarr visits Andy in his studio, The Factory, and photographs Warhol as “The Thinker.” Warhol photographs Lamarr in studio.

“Xanadu (Class of ’52) Revisited” – features in photographs by Earl Steinbicker and Jim Houghton, both previously assistants to Richard Avedon, twelve integral members of Black Mountain College in the hills of North Carolina.

“The New Theatre presents the work of its greatest living playwright, Sam Shepard, age 25.” Shepard writes “Operation Sidewinder”, a play about revolution, black militants, a computer generated machine with its own brain and its own synthetic form of life, UFO’S, the military, shamans, drugs, murder and mayhem. An early indication to the breadth of Sam Shepard’s long and respected career. His stage direction is embedded with music by The Holy Modal Rounders.

Check the links to learn more about this iconic duo - 60’s folk artists most easily recognized by their background song from an inspired scene in the movie ‘Easy Rider’ with Jack Nicolson on the back of Peter Fonda’s motorcycle “If You Want to be a Bird.”"

Claes Oldenburg, age 40, offers up “A Collector’s Item! My Very Last Happening” (read it as a warm, wet kiss but think of it as a play) “The Typewriter” Illustration by Claes Oldenburg with accompanying photographs by photographers to the avant- guarde, Earl Steinbicker and Jim Houghton.
This work consists of an anti-visual theatre piece. The setting is an accounting office, the props, a mixture of office sounds, tape recorders, office furniture, twelve secretaries, two pairs of floorwashers, several uncostumed assistants to handle lighting and sound production.The audience participates in the tightly scripted ‘office happening.” Caution could be mentioned as the piece requires some level of nudity from the dozen secretaries during the event. But hey…it’s the 60’s.

For those of you more astute to the politics of the era, an article by William H. Honan “The Art of Oratory in the Senate of the United States” most probably stands the test of time.

Evan S. Connell writes “Mr. Bridge”. Illustrations by Artist Paul Davis

Connell's novels Mrs. Bridge (1959) and Mr. Bridge (1969) are bittersweet, gently satirical portraits of a conventional, unimaginative upper middle class couple living in Kansas City from the 1920s to the 1940s. The couple tries to live up to societal expectations and to be good parents, but are sadly incapable of bridging the emotional distance between themselves and their children, and between each other. The pair of novels was made into a 1990 Merchant-Ivory motion picture, Mr. and Mrs. Bridge starring Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward.

“The Groom Looks – Would You Settle For “Groovy”? Has singer John Davidson modeling two pages of fashions for the groom alongside his then wife, singer Jackie Miller.

Saving the best for last, a story by the amazing and short-lived talent of Diane Arbus. “Tokyo Rose Is Home. She lives in Chicago now – quietly”. Trust Diane Arbus to have come up with a story unearthing the Dragon Lady of WW 2, indicted on eight counts of treason by the Department of Justice and convicted on one - because she “did speak into a microphone concerning the loss of ships” one day in a Tokyo radio station. 

Arbus’ portrayal of Iva Ikuko Toguri d’Aquino, aka “Tokyo Rose”, is an interesting read because it portrays her as a victim of American injustice whereas, to those overseas during the war years, she remains clear in their memories as a Dragon Lady of the airwaves bent on disrupting the moral of the American and Canadian troops sent overseas to fight Hitler. Iva ‘s story is that of a young California daughter of a Japanese-American couple raised in California sent to Japan in 1941 to visit a sick aunt. At the outbreak of war, she applied for a passport home but was denied. Her family were interned in California and she was denied all contact with them, and they with her. She was registered as an enemy alien in Japan, under the surveillance of the Japanese Thought Police. Meanwhile, she supported herself by working at various secretarial jobs and finally became a typist for the Broadcasting Corporation of Japan. She was chosen to broadcast as a disc jockey on a semi classical musical program for the Allied soldiers whom, as she tells it, she befriended and smuggled goods to. The story goes on to tell of her troubles post-wartime once back in the United States, and broadcaster Walter Winchell’s efforts through the State Department to see that she was held accountable for her wartime derogatory remarks about the United States. Interesting story of Did She or Didn’t She? Accompanied by her portrait as Diane Arbus saw her.

It’s a condensed look at a spectacular piece of journalistic history involving iconic artists, many of whom played an integral role in popular culture which, in the process, made for social change and secured for them a legacy that, decades later, remains intact.